Ten Days in Varanasi
...a city that blew my mind
It’s been two and a half years since I switched from Western astrology to Jyotish (Vedic astrology) and what a two and a half years it’s been!
The richness of my Jyotish lineage continually blows my mind. The knowledge I’ve acquired has allowed me to look deeper into the natal charts of my friends, family and clients than ever before – as well as offer effective remedies.
And the greatest thing is, there is still so much more to learn! A lifetime’s worth, in fact.
After finishing up two years of Science of Light (and passing the Year One practicum), I also enrolled in the Parāśara Jyotiṣa course (PJC), which includes an optional 10-day contact course in India.
I took up that option and just got back from a rewarding and very intense stay in Varanasi (aka Benares and Kashi).
Here’s a little bit about the city itself, followed by my impressions.
About Varanasi
One of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, Varanasi holds a rich historical and cultural significance. Nestled on the banks of the sacred Ganges River in the northern state of Uttar Pradesh, India, it is a spiritual and religious hub. With a history dating back over 3,000 years, it has been a center for Hindu philosophy, art, and learning for a very long time.
Varanasi is renowned for its ghats, ancient steps leading to the river, where pilgrims partake in ritualistic bathing to cleanse their souls. The city is also known for its silk weaving industry and exquisite Banarasi sarees. With a population that has grown steadily over the years (currently close to two million), Varanasi continues to be a living testament to India's timeless traditions and spiritual heritage.
Varanasi is particularly connected to Lord Shiva, one of the principal deities in the Hindu pantheon. The city is said to have been created by Shiva himself and is often called "Shiv ki Nagri" (City of Shiva). The ghats along the Ganges River are dotted with numerous temples dedicated to Lord Shiva, where devotees seek blessings and perform rituals.
Varanasi is intimately associated with the concept of death and moksha (liberation from the cycle of reincarnation). The Manikarnika Ghat, one of the city's prominent ghats, is renowned as a sacred cremation ground. Hindus believe that being cremated in Varanasi and having one's ashes immersed in the Ganges ensures liberation, breaking the cycle of rebirth. Pilgrims from all over India and beyond come to Varanasi to perform funeral rites, seeking spiritual solace and eternal peace for their departed loved ones. This deep connection to the cycle of life and death further enhances Varanasi's status as a city where the divine and mortal realms intersect in a profound and spiritual manner.
Ok, enough with the guidebook copy. I’ll now share some of my own personal experiences of the city.
The traffic is pure madness
One of the biggest culture shocks for me by far was the traffic. No stop lights of any kind, cars, rickshaws, bicycles, carts, scooters, motorcycles and pedestrians just making a go of it to a deafening symphony of honking horns.
It took me two days to get up the courage to cross the busy street in front of our hotel.
By the end of the trip, I was a pro.
The secret? Just cross the street the best you can as though it’s the most natural thing in the world. The cars and multitude of other vehicles are very good at swerving.
All of that exhaust, not to mention bodies burning 24/7 on Manikarnika Ghat, meant that the smog was out of control – this was the part of the trip I found the hardest to handle. I arrived in Varanasi just having recovered from a cold, and the bad air really brought back and aggravated my cough.
Varanasi is a city of extremes
On the first day, one of our teachers told us Varanasi is a city of extremes that takes you to great heights and emotional and spiritual breakthroughs, but also wears you out and forces you to face that which you’d rather not see.
This was something I definitely experienced, as did many other people in the group. As wonderful as it was to be in the city, learning Jyotish with a great group of people from all over the world and experiencing the magic and mystery of Varanasi and its many temples, the city is a lot – loud, dirty, with many a scam to fall into (although I found a firm “no” usually took care of such offers quickly). A lot of people got sick and I cried a few times alone in my hotel room because I felt so overwhelmed.
After the first few days, I started getting up early before class and headed over to a beautiful tree on Hanuman Ghat. The city is still buzzing, but much quieter at dawn. I got to know the rhythms of the street sweepers, the boys chanting at the school next to the tree, the bathers doing a ritual cleanse in the Ganges River, which lay stretched out before me.
Once, there was even a monkey battle in the branches above me while I sat and meditated. A truly beautiful and grounding way to start the day.
Many street animals abound…and sometimes they wear clothes
Besides the monkeys, who were cute but also looked kind of mean, you also see many other street animals. The most abundant are dogs, followed by cows and goats. I never did see a cat, although I suppose they were somewhere, lurking in the background.
For the most part, the animals just hang out and do their thing, snacking on trash and handouts people give to them.
One odd thing, however, is that occasionally they were dressed in clothes. The cow above has on a necklace, and I saw several other cows/bulls who were wearing what looked a cape. The dogs below are wearing some comfy blue sweaters.
I’m not sure if this means these animals were the particular favorite of someone, or if they were just randomly offered clothing at some point (which they obviously can’t take off themselves). Either way, it was definitely high on the cuteness factor list.
This trip, and Varanasi itself, are definitely something I’ll remember the rest of my life.
To see more pictures of my travels, wonderful Jyotish teachers and fabulous fellow students, check out the Instagram page we made for the trip.
Wow what are the chances I come across your post... I am planning a trip to Varanasi next week. I am excited to experience everything you described and even more. P.s. the dogs in cute clothes are usually strays which are dressed up by people of the locality to protect them from cold. Its a common practice across India.
I recently read The City of Good Death by Priyanka Champaneri that takes place in Banaras. The main character, Pramesh, is the manager of a death hostel there and your experience echoes the ways the author described the city and settings.